Changing out windows tricky with aluminum siding

Homeowner seeks advice on quality vinyl products
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News

Q: We have aluminum siding and single-pane aluminum windows. We would like to replace the old windows with new vinyl ones, but were wondering if that's possible with the aluminum siding. Also, how do we find a quality window? --Hugh S.

A: The difficulty in replacing windows in homes with aluminum siding has to do with how the windows were originally installed. Aluminum windows are usually installed by attaching them through a flange to the wall framing, and then the flange is covered with the siding. To reach the flange, you need to remove the aluminum siding trim around the window, but that may prove difficult. You can also cut the siding back far enough to reach the flange, and then install new trim around the new window.

The third option is to cut between the side of the window frame and the edge of the siding with a metal-cutting reciprocating saw, which will cut through the installation flange and releasing the window. All of these operations really should be performed by an experienced, licensed contractor.

Once the old window is out, any window company can make up new vinyl windows that will exactly fit the opening. As to quality, you want to look for a wide air space between the panes, and good weatherstripping, solid latches and smooth operation on operable windows. I would contact an experienced window dealer in your area -- stay away from the home centers and lumberyards on this one -- and have them come out to look at your home and discuss your options. Also, ask to see a house where they have done a similar installation. That way you can see the quality of both the window and their workmanship.

Q: Your column is one of my favorites, and now I have a question for you. We live in a retirement community and are having trouble with moisture in our indoor pool and spa area. Some members want to put in a hot air heating system to eliminate the problem. Will a gas furnace do this? --Francis G.

A: Theoretically, the installation of a gas-fired heating system will help to some degree. Any appliance that burns a fuel -- gas, wood, oil, etc. -- utilizes oxygen in the combustion process, so it pulls in room air to support the burning and tends to remove some of the room's existing moisture in the process.

This would not, however, be the proper solution for the situation you describe, since the amount of moisture being removed would not be sufficient to alleviate the problem. Also, the amount of moisture removal could not be regulated, and wouldn't be occurring at all when the furnace is off. What you need instead is a ventilation system that is properly sized to the area of the pool room and the amount of moisture being generated. This will remove the moist air from the room properly and under complete control.

I would strongly recommend that you contact an experienced commercial heating and ventilation contractor in your area. They can evaluate the room and the existing building, and assist you with a ventilation system that will meet your needs.

Q: Is there any reference delineating the pros and cons of different types of vents for ventilating an attic? --Todd A.

A: There have been numerous studies done over the years about attic ventilation with different types of vents, but what I have seen and read does not indicate any substantive differences in vent types, other than appearance. As long as you are meeting the required amount of ventilation area for your particular attic, the choice primarily comes down to one of aesthetics. Some people like the continuous ridge vents since they are more hidden under the ridge shingles; others like gable-end vents because they offer a large vent area, they don't require cutting into the roof, and there are some great shapes and styles available that can do a lot to complement the exterior of the house.

Kitchen is no place to skimp on lighting

Brightening tips to make cooking, cleaning even more fun
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News

When it comes to lighting, few places in the home are more important than the kitchen. From general lighting to specific task lighting, a well-designed lighting plan makes the use and enjoyment of any kitchen a much brighter undertaking.

GENERAL LIGHTING
General lighting is what comes on as you first enter the room. It should brighten up the room well enough that you can see to enter and move around the room, and to perform basic tasks, such as getting something out of the refrigerator.

In many kitchens, general lighting is accomplished with one or two incandescent or fluorescent light fixtures, or by a group of recessed can lights. The general lighting fixtures should be controlled by a switch that is easily accessible as soon as you approach or first enter the room. If there are two entrances to the room, the same group of fixtures can be controlled from both locations using a 3-way switch.

TASK LIGHTING
Task lighting, on the other hand, comes from fixtures that are strategically placed to provide good lighting for performing specific operations, such as cooking or cleaning up. Since the general lighting sources are located high up on the ceiling and behind you wherever you are in the room, your body typically blocks or shadows some of that light, which is why specific lighting fixtures dedicated to specific areas are so important. Task lighting may be in the form of recessed cans, fluorescent fixtures, halogen lights, or any combination. To conserve energy and prevent overlighting or overheating the room, activation of the task lighting is generally broken up between several switches.

To lay out your task lighting, first envision how the kitchen will be used. One or more fixtures should be located over the sink, to provide direct overhead lighting for cleanup and food preparation. Recessed lights work well here, as they can be directed very specifically to light the sink. The over-sink fixture should be on its own switch.

Cooking tasks require their own light source as well. If you have a range hood that is located above your cooktop or range, the light that is located within the hood may be sufficient, or you can add a recessed fixture to the ceiling that is located to provide as much direct light down onto the cooking surface as possible. The fixture in the hood will have its own switch, and any other specific cooking area light should be separately switched as well.

Islands can present another task lighting challenge. Here again, recessed fixtures can be used to good advantage to light up the island, or you can consider one or more hanging pendant lights over the area. Some lighting designs will have the island lights come on as part of the general lighting, but most will target these lights with separate switches as well.

One kitchen lighting area that is extremely important but often overlooked are the counters. Between the combination of your body as you stand at the counter and the bulk of the wall cabinets, much of the counter area is severely shadowed, and yet this is where much of the work in the kitchen is done.

To overcome this, specific under-cabinet lighting is used. Perhaps the most common source are shallow fluorescent fixtures that are mounted to the underside of the upper cabinets. These under-cabinet lights come in a number of different lengths to make it easy to match the fixtures to the cabinet layout, and you should use an adequate number of them to provide even, shadow-free lighting on all the counters.

Small halogen fixtures, typically called puck lights for their resemblance to small hockey pucks, are also sometimes used in these areas. Puck lights are brighter, but may put out too much glare or too much heat in some areas, so take that into consideration as well.

Here again, you want to divide up the under-cabinet fixtures onto one or more specific switches. What usually works best is to envision how the counters will be used, and then group the fixture switching so that the desired counter or group of counters are lit at the same time. For example, if you regularly use one section of counter for food preparation, all the under-cabinet lighting over that section of counter should be on the same switch.

All of these fixtures should be available from local lighting stores, electrical supply retailers, and home centers. Remember to use only UL-listed fixtures and parts, and always consult with a qualified electrician for assistance on any wiring project you're not comfortable with.

Beware of Kitchen-range Fire Hazard

Can fireproof material compensate for inadequate cabinet clearance?
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News

Q: I purchased a 27-inch, four-burner Wolf commercial range, with an oven, about 30 years ago. I was told when I purchased the range (commercial) that there should be at least six inches between the range and cabinets on both sides; the rear was tiled already. I had my kitchen remodeled in November 2006. Is there a way to protect my cabinets by installing any fireproofing products so that the range can set within the one or two inches against the cabinets, or should I tile the rear wall and the two sides next to the cabinets? --Fran K.

A: The required clearances for ranges will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even between models, but any commercial gas range will generate quite a bit of heat, and the rear, top and side clearances are critical to its safe operation. Also, adding ceramic tile directly over wood is not in and of itself adequate to create a noncombustible surface, due to the amount of heat transfer that occurs through the tile itself.

You will need to contact Wolf directly to find out what the specific clearances are for the model you have, and ask their technical department if there are any acceptable materials that can be used to reduce that clearance. However, due to the thickness of materials or material assemblies that can be considered noncombustible, it's doubtful you will be able to adequately cover the cabinets and still have clearance for the range to slip into the opening.

Incidentally, if the contractors that did the kitchen remodel did not comply with the appropriate clearances to meet the manufacturer's requirements, they have exposed you to danger and themselves to quite a bit of liability. Once you have spoken to Wolf and have obtained and checked the necessary clearances, if the current installation does not meet those clearances you need to have the contractor back out immediately.

Q: We have a charcoal-gray granite counter in our kitchen. We left a container with diluted bleach solution on the counter, and the container leaked. Now we have an area where the leak was that is slightly discolored and appears to have a somewhat duller finish. Do you have any recommendation on how to treat this area? --Ken G.

A: Granite is actually more porous than most people realize, and many installers will use a sealer on it to help prevent the granite from absorbing greases and oils. I suspect what has happened in your case is that the bleach penetrated whatever sealer was used when the granite was installed, which is what is accounting for the duller finish. Once it got through the sealer, it soaked into the marble slightly and bleached out some of the natural color in the stone.
It's hard to say if you are going to be able to get the color back completely, but I would recommend that you have an experienced granite installer take a look at it. Good installers have a variety of techniques they can use for blending colors -- they do it regularly to help conceal the seams where the pieces are put together -- and they may be able to do something here to bring back some of the color. They can definitely redo the sealer to get rid of the dull spot, and then re-polish the counters.

Check with any of the larger countertop shops that do granite installation, and they will have or be able to recommend a good installer for you.

Q: I purchased a synthetic deck last year and noticed (just like real wood) that it has faded. Can conventional deck stains be used in order to bring back the color? In addition, the manufacturer does not recommend cleaning the deck with a power washer thus, what is the best way to clean a synthetic deck? --Scott A.

A: You can clean the deck with hot soapy water and a stiff-bristle scrub brush. Many home centers have brush heads with a female thread that fit the male thread on the end of an extension pole -- the type of pole that fits a roller handle for painting -- so that will save you some stooping over.

After it's dry, you should be able to stain it with any type of stain that is suitable for wooden walking surfaces, such as a deck stain. I would check with the manufacturer of the decking you purchased to see if they have recommendations for specific brands of stain that work best with their product.

Speaking of manufacturers, if the deck is less than a year old, you may have some warranty issues with the fading. Before undertaking any re-staining, I would check with your dealer or directly with the manufacturer.

Three must-haves for a good paint job

Without proper prep, finished product could be disaster
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News

Paint preparation is one of the ugly sides of home-improvement projects. All that sanding and scraping and cleaning -- no one really likes to do it, but it's essential to a good paint job. So, like it or not, it's a step that you don't want to skip or do poorly, since the quality of your finished product pretty much depends on it.

There are three basic things to remember for properly preparing any surface that you want to paint -- get it clean, smooth and dry.

CLEAN IT UP
Paint will stick to most of the things it comes in contact with, which is not necessarily a good thing. If the surface being painted is dusty, for example, the paint will stick to the dust. Since the dust is not well-adhered to the surface below, you have an obvious recipe for paint failure.
It's important that the surface being painted has been cleaned to remove dust, dirt, grease and anything else that could get under the paint film and prevent it from forming a solid bond. For previously painted exterior surfaces, such as siding, dust everything off with a soft brush attached to a painter's extension pole. If the old paint is in generally good condition, you can also spray off the dust and dirt with a pressure washer that is set on low pressure and wide spray. Do not use high pressure or a concentrated spray nozzle, which can drive water into the siding.

For interior surfaces such as cabinets or moldings, dust the surface off with a brush to remove dust (use an inexpensive chip brush -- not your good paint brushes), then clean the surface with a degreaser to remove any grease residue. If the surface is glossy, lightly sand it to roughen it up slightly, then wipe or vacuum it off to remove any dust.
For new wood, such as new cabinets or furniture, your best bet is to use a tack cloth, available from any paint store or home center. A tack cloth is simply a piece of lint-free fabric that has been treated with a material to make it slightly sticky so that it will pick up fine dirt and dust particles.

A SOLID START
The same holds true for painting over old paint that is not well-adhered. The new paint film will stick to the old paint, and again, since that old paint is not attached to the surface below, the new paint job will eventually fail. There's simply no easy way to remove old paint, and you have four basic choices:

Scraping: The tried and true method is to use a hand paint scraper and scrape off any loose paint. A pull-type scraper works best for most situations, and helps prevent gouging into the wood below. Scrape with the grain in both directions until all that remains is paint that is well-adhered to the underlying surface. For small areas, a push-type scraper, such as a putty knife, will work as well.
Sanding: This is the other most common paint removal method, used alone or in combination with scraping. A pad sander works best for most situations, using an open-coat, coarse-grit paper for the initial paint removal. Avoid rotary sanders, which can gouge and raise the grain on some older siding, and belt sanders, which remove too much underlying material.
Chemicals: For small areas, such as a piece of furniture, you can use a chemical stripper to remove paint, varnish and other finishes. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, and make sure you have adequate ventilation.
Heat: Using a heat gun will work to remove paint in smaller areas, but it can be dangerous. You can damage the surface you're removing the paint from, and even worse, the heated paint film or the wood can catch fire. Skip this method.
Remember that a paint film is very thin, so whatever you've left on the surface is going to show through the new paint. Once you're done with the scraping and other paint removal work, sand the stripped areas with a medium to medium-fine grit of sandpaper to smooth out the wood and feather down the edges of any remaining paint.

DRY IT OUT
Preparation rule number three is that the surface to be painted needs to be dry. This applies to actual water that is standing on the surface being painted, as well as to material that is damp, such as wood that's been out in the weather. Any type of excessive moisture, either on or in the wood, can cause the paint to fail.

If you have pressure washed your siding, make sure it is completely dry before painting. Do not paint outside early in the day when moisture might be present on the wood, or on days of extremely high humidity. Inside, if you have washed the cabinets or other wood, they need to be completely dry again before applying the paint.

Picking the Right Sander for the Job

Great models priced from $40-$250
By Paul Bianchina

From removing old peeling paint to putting a glass-smooth finish on a new cabinet, sanding is a part of life for any do-it-yourselfer. It can be a tedious and dusty proposition at times, but luckily over the years many manufacturers have introduced power sanders to make the task easier and less messy.

Here's a look at the four main types of power sanders, along with some shopping tips for finding the one that works best for your specific applications.

Belt Sander: A belt sander is the largest and the most heavy-duty of the different power sanders. A belt sander utilizes a continuous sanding belt that is stretched over two drums, one of which is rotated by a powerful electric motor. The belt lays flat against the bottom of the sander as it rotates, creating a long, wide sanding surface that sands quickly and lessens the chance of gouging into the wood. Belt sanders are best suited for fast stock removal and also leveling out imperfections, and are used with the direction of the belt rotation parallel with the grain.

Belt sanders are specified by the size of the belt — which indicates the width and the overall length -- as well as the amperage of the motor, and when shopping you'll want to look for one that suits your job and your budget. Smaller sanders, such as Ryobi's 3-inch-by-18-inch (Model BE318-2, $49.95), is comfortable, light and easy to control, with a 5-amp motor that is well suited for light- to medium-duty use. Larger models, such as the massive 4-by-24-inch workhorse from Porter-Cable (Model 362VSK, $249), has a 12-amp motor and is designed for frequent, heavy-duty use.

Pad Sander: Also called a finishing sander, pad sanders have a flat square or rectangular pad located underneath the motor. The pad moves back and forth in a straight line, again for sanding with the direction of the grain, and the smaller sanding surface and lighter weight make these a good choice for finish sanding and paint removal on a wide variety of projects.
Pad sanders utilize standard sheets of sandpaper, which you'll need to cut to the proper size (precut sheets are also available for some sanders). The paper fits over a soft pad on the bottom of the sander that helps cushion the sanding motion, and is held in place by clips along two opposite sides of the pad.

Ridgid's 1/4-sheet sander (Model R2500, $44) is a good example of a versatile, well-designed pad sander for frequent use. It uses one-fourth of a standard sheet of sandpaper, and has a cushioned top and a conveniently located switch that makes the sander very comfortable for one-handed use, with minimal noise and vibration. Paper changing is easy -- something you definitely want to look for with a pad sander -- and the dust collection bag can be removed and the sander used with a shop vacuum hose instead.

Detail Sander: A detail sander is a smaller, lighter version of the pad sander, and as the name implies it is intended for taking care of the final detail sanding in those hard-to-reach places. Detail sanders typically have a pointed pad that can sand into corners, and often feature different attachments in a variety of shapes that can sand into the cracks and crevices that other sanders can't get into, such as moldings, spindles and inside drawers.

Black & Decker's new Mouse Sander/Polisher (Model MS600B, $39.99) is a very handy little detail sander, and incorporates a "feedback" system of lights that tells you when you're applying the proper amount of pressure for the surface you're sanding -- something that's very useful when putting the finishing touches on your project. It has soft-grip sides for great comfort, and a selection of sanding attachments to suit different applications.

Random Orbit Sander: A random orbit sander is in a class of its own, and can be used for anything from fast stock removal to fine finishing. Random orbit sanders look somewhat like pad sanders, with the sandpaper placed flat below the motor. However, the sandpaper pad spins in a circle while moving around in an oval pattern at the same time. This results in a random pattern of sanding that allows the sander to move across the grain without scratching.
Due to the circular motion, random orbit sanders utilize precut round sandpaper that is either 5 or 6 inches in diameter. A hook and loop system holds the paper securely to the bottom of the sanding pad, and also allows for fast paper changes. A random orbit sander could easily become your favorite all-around home improvement sander. When shopping for one, look for a model such as Ridgid's 6-inch sander (Model R2611, $129.99) that offers additional versatility to make it that much more useful. The Ridgid sander has two unique orbit settings -- 1/8 inch for fine sanding and 1/4 inch for fast stock removal -- as well as a soft-grip rear handle and a removable front handle for comfort. It also has electronic variable speed to make it suitable for a variety of materials and uses, a comfortably low-vibration 4-amp motor, and a handy, on-board fitting that adapts the sander to either 1 1/4- or 2 1/2-inch shop vacuum hoses.

How to Keep Water Flowing During Remodel

Tips on setting up temporary water heater, sinks, toilets
By Paul Bianchina

The one consistent thing about remodeling your home is that it's disruptive. There's dust, disorganization and even periods without electricity. But perhaps the most disruptive element of all is being without water.

Prior to the start of any remodeling project, especially a large one, you need to stop and consider what your plumbing needs will be during the course of the project, and then devise a plan on how to meet those needs. Three of the most common disruptions include: permanently or temporarily moving the water heater; disconnecting sinks; and disconnecting toilets.

MOVING WATER HEATERS
If your plans include moving the water heater to a completely new location, that work should be completed first. This would include relocation of the water lines, relocation of the electrical circuit, and, in the case of a gas water heater, installation of a new gas line and vent. If possible, complete all the required building inspections on the new lines, then immediately complete the drywall, painting and even floor covering in the area where the water heater will go, even if that's out of sequence with the rest of the project. That will allow you to install the water heater in its new location and discontinue the old location with a minimum of disruption.
If the water heater will remain in its current location but needs to be moved out of the way temporarily while work in that area is completed, your best bet is to set the water heater up temporarily in a new location. Choose a spot that is as close to the existing location as possible, then extend temporary water lines to that location using copper or plastic pipe, and extend any gas lines using a length of black pipe and/or flex lines that are approved for gas. Electrical circuits can be connected by extending a length of wire from the end of the existing circuit to the temporary location -- remember to use the proper gauge of wire and approved wire connectors.

In the case of a natural gas or propane water heater, remember that the water heater MUST be vented to the outside -- failure to do so can cause potentially deadly concentrations of carbon monoxide to build up in the house. Use pipe that is approved for gas appliance venting, and route it to a location that is well away from operable windows, vents or any opening that could potentially bring exhaust gasses back into the house.

TEMPORARY SINKS
If you've had to remove a bathroom or kitchen sink in order to reroute plumbing or install new cabinets, you can often rig up a sink installation to serve your basic needs on a temporary basis.

First, you need something to support the sink. If you have torn out your old cabinets, you can often simply reuse your sink cabinet, or you can use another old cabinet or construct a simple framework out of 2x4s. For a top, attach a piece of 3/4-inch plywood to the cabinet or the wood framework, and then cut out a hole that matches the sink. As with the water heater, you can use copper or plastic pipe to temporarily extend the water lines.

For drain lines, if the temporary sink is near the drain location from the original sink, you can use plastic pipe and extend a temporary drain from the sink — just make sure it flows downhill from the sink to the drain connection. You can also simply place a large bucket under the sink outlet to catch the drain water, then dispose of it as needed. Remember that the water you collect in the bucket will still need to be poured out into a drain that leads to your sewer or septic tank — don't just dump it on the ground.

TEMPORARY TOILETS
The easiest plumbing inconvenience to overcome is the loss of a toilet — just go rent one. Portable toilets are available on a weekly or monthly rental basis, and include delivery, pickup, and, in the case of longer-term rentals, regular cleaning, emptying and other maintenance. The units are weatherproof and self-contained, and can be placed just about anywhere. For an additional cost, portable toilet units are also available with completely self-contained cold-water sinks as well. Check your Yellow Pages under "Toilets-Temporary."

Install Crown Molding like a Pro

Make your job easier with a second person or carpentry book
By Paul Bianchina

Q: I am remodeling my living room and would like to install a wide cove molding at the ceiling, but I need help in mitering the corners. Do I cut them at a 45-degree angle? Do I cope them? Any information would be greatly appreciated. --Steve H.

A: Crown molding is one of the most attractive and interesting molding features you can add to a room. It is also, however, one of the more difficult finish carpentry tasks to undertake.
Crown molding sits at an angle to the wall, as opposed to a base molding that sits flat against it. Therefore, you have to deal with a compound miter -- one that angles in two directions at once -- as opposed to the standard miter used on a baseboard. You have several options open to you for how to do this, and I would recommend that you purchase some inexpensive, paint-grade crown molding to practice with until you get the hang of the techniques. Some of these techniques are also very difficult to explain in words, so your best bet is to purchase a book on finish carpentry (or get one from the library) that has illustrations of the various step-by-step procedures that follow:

Compound miter saw: If you have access to one, the easiest way to cut crown molding is with a compound miter saw. These saws have the ability to be set at an angle relative to the back fence as well as having the head of the saw set at an angle, allowing you to cut both angles at the same time. Full instructions for the proper angle settings are included with the saw (they differ with the type of crown molding being installed). If you have a lot of molding work to do you may want to invest in one, or they can also be rented.

Table or radial arm saw: You can also make compound miter cuts on a table saw by tilting the blade and then holding your molding against a miter gauge that's set at an angle. Table saws, however, tend to be awkward for handling long pieces of molding. You can also use a radial arm saw by angling both the arm and the blade, but I've found the cuts on these to be somewhat rough.

Standard miter saw and miter boxes: You can use a standard miter box or miter saw to cut crown molding. The trick is to cut the molding upside-down, and with both of the rear faces in perfect contact with the fence. In other words, the molding is upside-down and facing you, with the ceiling edge down and against the bottom of the miter box and the wall edge up and against the back of the box. You can then make the cut with the blade set at 45 degrees.

Coping: This is done by first square cutting the end of one piece of molding and running it all the way into the corner, then cutting the end of the intersecting one in a pattern that matches the face of the first piece. This is not as difficult as it may seem, but it does require some patience and the use of a relatively inexpensive hand tool called a coping saw.

Corner blocks: If you don't want to mess with angles at all, you can install decorative corner blocks at each inside and outside corner, then simply square-cut the molding and butt it against the flat sides of the blocks. Corner blocks are not a stock item at most stores, so ask to see a molding catalog to find out what's available.

By the way, with whatever technique you decide on, crown molding is considerably easier, safer and more accurate to install if you have the help of a second person.

Small Improvements can make the most of your Utility Room

By Paul Bianchina

More efficient ways to handle laundry, pets and muddy shoes.

Call it what you will -- utility room, laundry room, mud room -- the names say it all. It's a place for the washer and dryer to live, a place for wet and dirty clothes to hang out, a landing point for muddy boots and chore jackets, you name it. If you have one of those multipurpose rooms and you'd like it to do even more, or at least do it more efficiently, here are a number of suggestions that allow a hardworking room to work even harder.

Deal with your hang-ups: Adding a clothes pole will give you a place to hang damp clothes while they finish drying, which saves dryer time and helps prevent clothes from shrinking or wrinkling. Clothes poles can be hung on the same brackets used for closet installations, and also offer an easy way of adding another shelf above the pole.

You can also make a simple and decorative clothes rack from piece of wood with pegs or metal hooks. Attach it to the wall near the door for convenient storage of coats and umbrellas.
Kick your shoes off: If you're fortunate enough to have a larger utility room that's accessible to the outside, add a bench to make it easier to sit down and remove wet shoes. Leave the bench open underneath, and add a shoe rack to provide a convenient spot for drying and storing shoes.

Don't hamper your laundry day: By installing some convenient hampers, you can make laundry day a little easier. One solution is to install roll-out hampers in base cabinets, which better utilize the cabinet space and also free up floor space. Use at least two hampers, so clothes can be sorted as they're tossed in. If cabinet space is at a premium, there are a number of compact hamper units available at home centers, both freestanding and wall hung.

Iron out the wrinkles: If you have an old, space-hogging ironing board that always looks ugly and is always in the way no matter where you put it, consider the addition of a folding ironing board that hides away inside the wall. Ironing board cabinets come completely preassembled, and simply slip into a recess in the wall between the studs. After installation, the only thing visible is the face frame and door, which are available in several door styles and wood types to match any home.

Basic models of folding ironing boards house the board only, and are the easiest to install. Some of the upgraded versions have an interior electrical outlet with a timer that lets you plug in the iron and then shuts it off again after a predetermined interval, and therefore require an electrical connection as well.

Add some flat space: The addition of a flat table or counter for folding clothes can be a real time and work saver. Clothes can be dealt with as soon as they come out of the dryer, and the wide, flat, solid surface is a whole lot easier to work on than folding clothes on the bed. Plastic laminate counters work best here, being durable, water-resistant, smooth, and easy to clean.
If space is limited, you might consider a folding table. Attach a laminate counter to the wall on hinges, with legs underneath -- secured either to the wall or to the underside of the counter -- that fold out to provide support and fold back in to let the counter lie flat against the wall when not in use. It also keeps your counter from getting piled high with junk, which kind of defeats its original purpose.

Paws for more help: If you're fortunate enough to have a pooch or two sharing your home, the utility room can be an ideal place to handle some of their storage needs as well. A wall-hung hook or peg rack can hold leashes, collars and a towel for those damp, after-walk cleanups. There are a number of sturdy and sanitary bins available to store dog food, and a dedicated shelf or small cabinet is ideal for storing grooming supplies, medications, toys and other items that need their own home.

For those of you with larger utility rooms, you might be able to dedicate a corner to a dog-wash area and eliminate the need for those messy bathtub encounters. Some possibilities for this include installing a small bathtub on a raised platform -- the elevated height makes dog-washing a lot easier on your back -- or having a spot for a portable wash tub that can be stored away when not in use. Booster Bath is a great, affordable wash tub that breaks down easily for storage when not in use.Most of the items you need for a utility room makeover are readily available at any home center.

Does my attic have adequate ventilation?

Calculate how much you need with simple math

By Paul Bianchina

Remember how hot your attic was when you went up there to check the antenna wire last summer? Remember that ice dam on the roof? Proper attic ventilation can help with both those problems, but how do you know how much you need -- and just as importantly, how much do you already have?

Determining what you need is simple -- all you need is the size of your house and a calculator. Attic ventilation should equal approximately 1 square foot of vent area for every 300 square feet of attic, so figure out roughly how many square feet the footprint of your attic is, and then divide by 300. To ensure effective air movement throughout the attic, the total vent area should be split approximately evenly between high and low vents, so now divide that number by two to get a rough idea of how much low ventilation and how much high ventilation your home needs.

Finally, since vents are measured and sold based on square inches, you'll want to convert from square feet. To do that, take the total amount of ventilation you need in square feet and multiply by 144 to convert it to square inches.

DETERMINING WHAT'S EXISTING
In order to determine how much ventilation you currently have, you need to measure the sizes of the existing vents, and then make a few adjustments in order to figure out exactly how much air is able to actually get through them.

Let's say you have a 12-inch-by-18-inch gable-end vent. That equals an area of 216 square inches (12 x 18), and that's how much ventilation area you would have if you left the hole wide open. However, to prevent animals, insects and rain from getting into your attic, you would need to install a gable-end vent, which has a screen and louvers on it. You have now reduced the amount of area that the air can pass though by the amount of area taken up by the screen, the louvers and the framework of the vent. The remaining open area that the air can actually pass through is called the net free area (NFA), and that is how vents are rated.

If you are purchasing new vents, the NFA should be printed right on the vent itself. If it isn't, or if you are trying to figure out how much vent area you currently have with your existing vents, here are some common vents and their approximate net-free area:

7-inch round roof vent: 30 square inches

8-inch round roof vent: 40 square inches

9-inch round roof vent: 50 square inches

12-inch x 18-inch gable vent: 96 square inches

3.5-inch x 22.5-inch soffit vent: 40 square inches

5.5-inch x 22.5-inch soffit vent: 72 square inches

Continuous ridge vent: 11 to 16 square inches per linear foot

For other types of vents, you can calculate the NFA using the following formula: Gross vent area / area factor = NFA. The area factor is how much of an adjustment you need to make for the screen and other obstructions, based on the following approximations:

1/4-inch screen: area factor = 1.0

1/4-inch screen with louvers: area factor = 2.0

1/8-inch screen: area factor = 1.25

1/8-inch screen with louvers: area factor = 2.25

Louvers, no screen: area factor = 2.0

So, using that formula, let's say you have a big 12-inch-by-24-inch gable-end vent with 1/8-inch screen and louvers. The gross size of the vent is 288 square inches (12 x 24), and the area factor for 1/8-inch screen with louvers is 2.25. Divide 288 by 2.25, and you can determine that your vent has approximately 128 square inches of net free area.

ADD MORE VENTS AS NEEDED
If, after all this math, you determine that your attic does not have enough ventilation, you need to give some serious thought to adding more.

Separate what you need into high and low, and decide how many of each type of vent you need. Remember that the half and half ratio of high to low is only an approximation -- if you have almost enough low vents and are short on high vents, you can add a little more high-vent area than you need to make up the difference.

Hardware stores, home centers and lumberyards all carry a wide variety of vents for different applications. You can install them yourself, or contact a licensed roofing contractor to have it done for you.

Keep Concrete, Asphalt Safe from Water Intrusion

By Paul Bianchina

It seems like something as tough as your concrete or asphalt driveway would be able to easily stand up to something as small as a drop of water. But the effects of rain and snow, especially if that moisture gets into cracks in the surface and then freezes, can do a surprising amount of damage to a driveway, walkway, wall, or other concrete, masonry or asphalt surface.

So, before winter hits again this year, fight back by sealing those porous surfaces against water intrusion. There are a number of sealers that are formulated specifically for this purpose, and they are easy to apply without special equipment.


CONCRETE AND MASONRY SEALERS


For a tough finish on concrete, you'll want to use a specific concrete sealer. Not intended for brick, block, stone and other masonry, concrete waterproofing sealers penetrate deep into the surface of the concrete -- up to one inch of penetration on previously unsealed concrete -- and forms a very tough barrier against moisture.


Some sealers are formulated for specific applications. If you have a concrete slab, for example, that is subject to a lot of grease and oil on a regular basis, selecting a sealer that is specifically made for that will greatly simplify your cleaning. There are also sealers formulated for underwater concrete, such as ponds and pools, for sanitary surfaces, and other applications.

For most masonry surfaces -- brick, stone or ceramic tile -- a masonry sealer is the proper choice. Depending on the type of masonry sealer, some will also work to seal concrete slabs. Masonry sealers will penetrate into the pores in the surface of the masonry and seal them against moisture. The sealer also helps to protect against buildups of dirt, oil, grease and markings from automobile tires. Masonry sealers are not intended for use on asphalt, glazed ceramic tile or on wooden surfaces.


Sealers also come in different surface "sheens," depending on the look you want. While all of them are clear, some types dry to a completely flat sheen and leave the surface looking unsealed. Other types dry to a glossy "wet" look, and the depth of the gloss increases with each application. There are also semi-gloss sheens that are in between flat and glossy. The choice of how glossy you want the finished surface is typically one of personal preference; however, with some types of sealers the glossier the product is the more abrasion-resistant properties it has.


APPLYING CONCRETE AND MASONRY SEALERS


As with the application of most coatings, you need to start with a surface that is clean and dry. That may be as simple as a good sweeping or blowing off of the surface with a leaf blower, or it may involve pressure washing or spot scrubbing to clean off heavily soiled areas. If you do end up having to use water or other liquid cleaners, be sure that the surface is allowed to dry completely before applying the sealers -- application over a wet surface will almost guarantee that the sealer will fail.


If efflorescence is visible -- a chalky white coating on the masonry or concrete that occurs as salts leach out of the cement during drying -- that needs to be removed as well. You can clean efflorescence with a diluted mixture of muriatic acid, but most sealers require that the acid then be neutralized -- a 50/50 mixture of water and ammonia is a common neutralizer.
The sealer can usually be applied using a brush, roller or spray. Pump-up garden sprayers work well for some types of sealers, as do some types of paint sprayers. Some sealers are formulated for a single-coat application, and others require a buildup of multiple coats.


ASPHALT SEALERS


Like concrete and masonry, asphalt is also subject to the effects of wear and tear as well as the detrimental effect of heat, rainwater and freeze/thaw cycles. Left alone, the asphalt will begin to deteriorate over time, and the periodic application of an asphalt sealer will help prevent the much more expensive alternative of having to remove and replace the asphalt completely if it begins to break down.


You can apply asphalt sealers yourself if desired. Large cracks need to be patched first, using a cold-application asphalt mix or an asphalt crack sealer. After that, the surface needs to be cleaned, and then allowed to dry if necessary. Depending on the size of the area, the sealer can then be applied using a special mop, a rough-surface roller, or an asphalt brush.


For this project, you might also want to consider having the work done by a company that specializes in asphalt sealing. Get two bids from reputable, licensed, local companies, and remember that the low bid is not necessarily the best bid. The bids should include patching any large cracks, as well as a complete cleaning of the asphalt prior to application of the sealer.
Sealers are available at some home centers and hardware stores, but your best bet for expert advice and a wide selection of products is to check with a store that specializes in masonry or asphalt products. Each product will have specific uses, application methods, weather and temperature application restrictions, and safety precautions, so be sure you carefully read and follow ALL of the manufacturer's specific recommendations.

Save Money on Home Improvement

Save Money on Home Improvement

By Paul Bianchina

There's no denying it — remodeling, repairing and decorating your home can be an expensive undertaking. But with a little creativity and some wise shopping decisions, you'd be surprised at how much you can save on your next project!
Lumber: There are a number of different lumber grades available, and the higher grades also carry higher price tags. If you don't need the increased structural capacity or better appearance of the higher grades, save some money by selecting a lower grade that's appropriate for the intended use. Also, many lumber yards have piles of lumber that are culled out because it's warped, split or otherwise unsuitable for sale at full retail. You can often pick this material up at sizable discounts, and it's perfectly good for jobsite uses such as blocking, temporary bracing, etc.
Beams: Another place to save some money is with the purchase of beams. Many structural-engineered lumber beams come in long lengths that are cut on site at the lumber yard, leaving drops that are too short for long spans. You can often pick these up cheap, and they can be used as headers for doors and small windows, or in other framing applications.
Large versus small packaging: Some construction items, such as nails, screws and other hardware, are available in both small and large packaging. Buying in larger packages saves you money on a per-pound basis, so long as you have a need for the items now or in the foreseeable future. If you only intend to use a few of the items, you're better off buying the smaller packages — even though you pay a little more per pound, you don't waste money on excess you'll never use.
Bulk buying: Along those same lines is buying in bulk. Items such as sand, topsoil, gravel, bark, and other bulky construction and landscaping materials can be purchased in bags, but you really pay a premium on a per-cubic-yard basis for that convenience. If you have a pickup truck or a small trailer, picking these materials up yourself in bulk will save you quite a bit of money. For even larger quantities, paying a small fee to have them delivered will still result in a sizable per-yard discount over bagged material.
Concrete: For small jobs such as setting a fence post, you can't beat the convenience of bagged concrete mix. But once your project gets up around a quarter of a cubic yard, bagged concrete becomes a whole lot harder on both your wallet and your back. Many towns have small-yardage concrete companies that are much more economical, and you can also have a full-size concrete truck deliver the wet material for a very reasonable "short-load" fee.
Small pieces of plywood: Many home centers and lumber yards have smaller, precut pieces of plywood and other materials, and you can save yourself some money if you only need a small piece for a one-time project. However, these small panels are quite expensive on a per-square-foot basis, so if you have a future need for the plywood and a place to store it, you're definitely money ahead by buying a full sheet and cutting it yourself.
Tools: When a home-improvement project calls for a particular tool that you don't currently have, consider how often you might use that tool in the future. If it's a basic item, such as a circular saw or even a paint brush, that will see a lot of use over the years, then buy the best you can afford. It's safer, easier to use, and its long life will more than pay for itself when compared to cheaper tools that require periodic repair or replacement. A tool you might only use a few times could be a lesser expensive model, so long as it's safe. If the tool will more than likely be a one-time use, consider renting instead of buying.
Sweat equity: Got a little more time than money? If you're having work done on your home, talk with the contractor about what things you can reasonably do — and the key word is reasonably — to save some money. Perhaps you can do your own painting, or scrap things out and clean up the site at the end of each day. But whatever your agreement is, get it in writing!
Seconds, roll ends and discontinued items: Many retailers have items such as appliances and plumbing fixtures that they sell at sizable discounts because they are slightly blemished, have minor scratches or are in the store because someone misordered them. Flooring companies often have "roll ends" of carpet and vinyl for sale at a fraction of their original price, and that are perfect for smaller rooms. Many paint stores will have sales on mismatched or mistinted paint, or wallpaper that was misordered. Tile stores often have a sizable inventory of discontinued tiles, stones, grouts and other materials at great prices. If you can be a little flexible and creative in your design thinking and are willing to do a little research, you'll find there are bargains all around you!